Ichoubafubuki

randon comments and thoughts from my travels

chang — elephant, depending on how you pronounce it

We see here that the written word “chang” (in English letters) means “elephant”. However, Thai is a tonal language so there are actually 5 ways to pronounce chang — low, middle, high, rising and falling. You may think you are saying elephant, but you may be talking about a craftsperson, or REALLY insulting someone. Fortunately, this is a written medium, so you can rest assured I am talking about elephants here.

I am in love with elephants. We spent much of the day yesterday interacting with them and as I look back over my life, it will rank as one of my favorite days … ever! What magnificent creatures. So big. So gentle.

Our first stop of the day was the Million Year Stone and Animal Park. The million year stones were an amazing display of petrified wood sculptures, naturl and man crafted. And the animal park focused on elephants, tigers, and crocodiles. On arrival, the 20 or so people in our entourage piled out of the three vans assigned to drive us around, and agreed to meet back at the entrance two hours later. As soon as my  faculty colleagues and I realized there were elephants to be seen, we headed that directions. Who wants to look at rocks when you can interact with elephants? :-)

We stood around and looked at the elephants, paid 20 baht (about 75 cents) for some bananas to feed them and then realized that for a few more baht (100) we could have our pictures taken with them, and for onloy 400 baht (about $13) we could ride one! Didn’t take long to make that decision.

   

 The smile on my face says it all.

 This park also had tigers and of course for a few baht, we could have pictures taken with them too. These were not as interactive as the elephants … probably a good thing. The baby was darling … big pussycat. We opted out of the crocodile show. Didn’t find them at all appealing. Instead we  took a walk around the “rocky” area of the park. The rocks really were actually quite amazing.

 From there to lunch. Once again we were served far too much food … but it was all fresh seafood from the tanks we walked past on our way in. After lunch we were going to an elephant preserve. I had been told about this beforehand and was really looking forward. However, when we pulled in to the place, it was very tacky. Not at all “natural” … but of course there was the opportunity to pose with and ride elephants.

   

 When I got back from my ride — and I must say it was a little disconcerting when the mahut first jumped down from the elephant and started walking in front of us … but after a few bananas, the elephant and I were great friends — our group leader said that our hosts realized how disappointed we were with this place and we were now going to the real elephant preserve. And I am so glad we did. 

It was a 2-3 hour experience … starting out with about a 45 minute elephant ride where we jockeyed and raced with others in our group. Took pictures … and this one makes the 36 hour trek to get hit worth every second …

Sigh. I had to get off and let other people have their picture taken.

This was followed by a walk in the woods, a silk making exhibit, a boat ride surrounding by large, hungry fish, and, finally, a ride in an ox cart (according to one of our guides, a Thai limousine) back to the start. Only problem — as soon as we started moving in the ox carts it started to rain. It started pouring rain. And now we were all getting soaking wet, bouncing around in the carts behind galloping oxen and laughing so hard our sides hurt. 

Nothing more to say. An incredible adventure. I am so glad I’ve had the opportunity to do this. Today we tour Bangkok. Tomorrow we get down to work.

sawatdhee,
j

 

 

 

No Comments by on May 19, 2012
filed in Uncategorized

sabai, sabai … relax, take it easy

What an interesting and  full day yesterday.

Yesterday morning we heard a presentation about the work of Mechai Viravaidya — not just in promoting birth control and safe sex in Thailand, but his current emphasis on providing education and promoting sustainable development as a way to alleviate poverty.  After the presentation we were taken on a tour of the sustainable farm that is adjacent to the resort. Of course, for “farmer Jean” this was the best part — despite the drenching heat. They have incorporated incredibly clever ideas into the production of food … using all kinds of recycled materials as growing containers … PVC pipes cut in half make long growing trays, plastic bags of many sizes filled with dirt which is recomposted after each crop, empty soda cans and bottles as planters, even shoes … one of the shoes on the growing rack was identified as ”Bill Gates’ Senior’s” (his father). The Mechai foundation has won awards from the Gates foundation and on a recent visit to the site,  display he was so impressed with their efforts he donated a shoe, a very large shoe, to the cause. There is just too much for me to cover here, too many pictures to organize in such a short, busy time. I highly recommend checking out his work at www.mechaifoundation.org. He’s an amazing man. My hero.

After a brief break for lunch, I had “feedback” sessions with each of the student teams where I heard a common message from them all … frustration. Here we have a group of hard-driving, high performing students used to the American process of doing business. Facts. Figures. Charts. Details. Well … this is Thailand. As we heard from the subsequent speaker’s presentation. Most of the enterprises in Thailand are small ones. Focus is more on family and community values. And most importantly, things happen at a different pace … sabai, sabai … take it easy, relax. Things will happen when they will. If you push too hard, things won’t happen at all. Even though we faculty advisors have been telling the students that throughout this project, I think that message really got through to a number of them yesterday. Experience. The only way to really learn.

And so today should be a relaxed one … we are going on an expedition to see elephants, tigers and crocs. Oh my! Paint my shoes ruby red. :-)

sawatdhee,
j

No Comments by on May 19, 2012
filed in Uncategorized

On the ground … at last

Finally … on the ground in Pattaya, at the Birds and Bees resort. It’ hard to say much about it yet. After what seemed like many days on airplanes, we arrived at the Bangkok airport at about 11:15 PM Thursday night. The airport itself it beautiful … brand new, lots of glass, efficient. The six of us who were traveling together got through customs and luggage in about a half an hour … then went to the meeting point to meet our hosts and collect the rest of our students who had come in on different flights from different places. That was a bit like herding cats. After waiting for about an hour, playing with cell phones and computers to see if we had any connections and then any messages, we found out that the students we were waiting for had already gone to the hotel. We then stumbled out to a group of vans that drove us to Pattaya where we are staying the first few days.

At that hour of the morning, in the dark, except for the signs in Thai script, we could have been driving anywhere. Once we got to the resort though, it was clear we weren’t in Kansas anymore. Lush greenery. Hanging vines with unusual flowers. A lovely room with balcony from which I can hear the ocean. And best of all … a bed! At last … to lie ina prone position and sleep. Blessed sleep … for a few hours anyway. It was 2:45 AM by the time I lay down and about 2:46 when I’d passed out.

But now, about 5 hours laters, I’ve showered (hallelujah!), found the internet, and charged my camera battery. Time to wander out toward breakfast and explore. 

sawadhee,
j

No Comments by on May 18, 2012
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A whole new alphabet, excuse me, I mean abugida …

I am counting down the last hours until I start off on my trip to Thailand for this year’s Global Business Project and it struck me … much like my first trip to Japan, I won’t be able to read anything when I land in Thailand. I remember well that first trip to Japan, nearly 30 years ago, looking at the street signs, buildings, and neon retail signs as the bus drove into downtown Tokyo. They were all undecipherable. Unlike traveling in Europe where the languages are based on the Roman alphabet and you can pronounce the words — badly, but nonetheless you can recognize them — in Japan there was a complex mixture of kanji characters, hiragana, and katakana syllabaries. It was very disconcerting. I suspect my arrival in Thailand will be similar, for the Thai language uses a totally different writing system.

The Thai language is, according to Wikipeia: is not a true alphabet but an abugida, a writing system in which each consonant may invoke an inherent vowel sound, described as an implied ‘a’ or ‘o’. Consonants are written horizontally from left to right, with vowels arranged above, below, to the left or to the right of the corresponding consonant or in a combination of those positions.” It has forty-four consonants (Thai: พยัญชนะ, phayanchaná), fifteen vowel symbols (Thai: สระ, sàrà) that combine into at least twenty-eight vowel forms, and four tone marks (Thai: วรรณยุกต์ or วรรณยุต, wannayúk or wannayút).

I have no fears though — we will be greeted by representatives of the University with whom we are working, who will whisk us off to The Birds and The Bees Resort (more about that to follow) where we will spend our first weekend. Over the first three days we will have some academic sessions, cultural tours of Temples in Bangkok, and … what I am really looking forward to … a visit to an elephant preserve. Hopefully there will be many photos to follow.

So I must get back to my final packing. Tomorrow will be a very long day. I’ll leave my house at about 7 AM (Wednesday) and arrive in Thailand about 11 PM on Thursday night. I have no idea how many hours that is in “real” time. I just know I’ll be tired and very excited when I get there! :-)

ไว้เจอกัน

— I think that means, see you later! ?
j

 

 

No Comments by on May 15, 2012
filed in Uncategorized

Aloha

No, that’s not Japanese, it’s Hawaiian for “Hello” and “Goodbye”. It seems appropriate since I don’t seem to know whether I’m coming on going these days.

Just got back from a whirlwind trip to Hawaii, courtesy of a client in China who hired me to do a one day training session and flew me there first class! I actually spent three days in Hawaii … one before the session to make sure everything was ready for it, one doing the training, and one after to sit on the beach before boarding a red eye flight (that was 3 hours late) to San Francisco where I stopped for a day to visit with good friends before boarding another red eye (that was also three hours late) to come home.  It was a good trip, but long, and, with the middle of the night flight delays, exhausting. I’m trying to keep it together to get to the end of the semester next Monday.

I thought it was time to resurrect this blog since I’ll soon be heading  off on the 2012 Global Business Project. It’s different this year. I’m not going to Japan. The project team that I am working with is working on a project in Thailand. Well, it will be an adventure — I’ve never been there before. And the company we are working with is a travel agency and tour group so I suspect we will be well taken care of. I am looking forward to the elephant ride … I’ve heard it’s an experience not to be missed!

More good news is that the flight to and from Bangkok stops in Japan, so on the way back I’ll get off and spend a week there before returning home. So, for now, I say, “Aloha and Sawadhee (hello in Thai)”
dewa mata,
j

by on April 24, 2012
filed in GBP 2012

Flirting with Mt. Fuji

In the 28 years I have been traveling to Japan, I have never had a really a good view of Mt. Fuji. I’ve had glimpses of it from trains. Once from somewhere up in north central Japan, I asked my business colleague, “What is that mountain in the distance?” You could see Mt. Fuji from that far away. And many years ago Shoko and I went to Hakone, the tourist area best known for Fuji view, but it was overcast. So from the hotel, or the outdoor spa, we never really saw the mountain. For a few minutes, on the bus ride on the way back to Tokyo we did get a view of the mountains. I remember it was spectacular. We came around a wooded corner and there in front of us was Fuji, spread out on the green rice fields like all those ukiyo-e paintings. There were some clouds at the top but we had a clear, if fleeting, view of the base of the cone. And then we went around another corner and it was gone. So this trip, we planned an excursion to Izu peninsula so I could do some Fuji viewing. Or should I be really honest here and say, Shoko planned the excursion. I just followed her lead. Izu peninsula is southwest of Tokyo and south of Mount Fuji. From the west side of the peninsula you can have a good view of Mt. Fuji across the ocean water.

Our plan was to meet at the Tokyo train station on Monday morning. Now Tokyo station is probably one of the largest train stations in the world (I’ll have to look that up). There are 10 tracks just for the Shinkansen (high speed) trains. Another ten for the commuter rail, and 6 more for subway and other lines. It’s huge. It’s intimidating, especially if you aren’t familiar with it. Fortunately we had cell phones. I was waiting at the wrong ticket counter. Shoko talked me through the station to find her. It was a fast and comfortable ride to Mishima. I got my first glimpse of Fuji as we pulled in to the station. If you look carefully, you can see the snow ribbons on the top of the cone in the picture below: 

We had lunch there — delicious fresh sushi — then boarded the hotel bus for the 30 minute ride to the hotel where we were staying that night. And what a wonderful surprise that was. An elegant hotel on an island with most rooms having a balcony  that looked toward Fuji. Of course the clouds left over from the recent typhoon were still lingering around the top of the mountain … but, again, if you look hard you can see the snow on the top.

It was such a tease. The clouds would thin, then move in again. Mt. Fuji was like a coy geisha hiding behind her fan. There was actually a little card in the room that had diagrams of various types of clouds around Mt. Fuji, each with a different name. Even though we didn’t see her clearly, we did see a magnificent sunset from the hotel restaurant where we had dinner.

Early the next morning, about 5 AM, I awoke to see a clear blue sky from the bedroom window. I jumped out of bed, grabbed the camera, and headed for the balcony. The sky was mostly clear, only some high thin clouds. And there was Fuji in the morning sunrise. It was worth the wait.

A few hours later, the clouds started moving in again … but it was still amazing.

The picture above was taken at 8 AM. By 10 AM the top of Fuji was again shrouded in clouds. We moved to another hotel that day as the heavy clouds rolled back in on the wake of the typhoon. Never did get another clear view through the overcast. But now I knew what was under those clouds. And I have a box of “Mt. Fuji Fan Club” cookies to prove it. Really … volcano shaped cookies with white icing on the top. How could I resist bringing them home?

dewa mata
j

by on June 9, 2011
filed in Jean in Japan

ごちゃごちゃ — gochagocha — confusion

gochagocha is one of the many Japanese onomatopoeiatic words, i.e. words that sound like their meaning. I use this one as in: atama ga gochagocha desu — my head is confused. I’m at the point in the trip where I become really schizophrenic. I’m happy here. And I miss being home. I’m sad to leave here. I’ll be happy to be home and when there will miss being in Japan. Oh well. I’ll have to come back.

Also adding to my addled brain is that after three and a half weeks of trying to speak and listen to understand Japanese and intermittently speaking English, I don’t know which language to use. Shoko would ask me “How do you say that in English?” and I would look at her blankly, unable to get my head around words in any language. At other times she would say something to me in Japanese and I would say, “I know what you mean but have no idea what you said!”

I am finding now that I understand much of what I hear, but still have a terrible time putting sentences together. Simple sentences I can handle. Anything with a complex thought becomes a tongue twister and really makes my head gochagocha. Of course, after several days with Shoko this week, we both have little notebooks full of words and expressions in the other’s language. Some are accompanied by pictures. Many of them (the really good ones!) I have sworn never to reveal in public. And I must live up to that promise because I’ve discovered that Shoko reads this blog. I saw the book mark on her computer this morning! And because she does, I have some corrections to make.

In my last entry, tsuyu, or rainy season, I used the wrong kanji. The one I used, 露, tsuyu, means dew or dew drops. I actually should have used two kanji, 梅, tsu - plum, and 雨, yu - rain to make 梅雨, tsuyu or plum rain. The rainy season is when the plums ripen.

I also, in my first entry from Japan, misquoted the energy used by the escalators in Tokyo station. It’s 40%, not 60%. Still a sizable fraction of the energy usage. And while referencing something earthquake related, I should mention that we felt a sizeable aftershock this morning. We were looking at pictures on Shoko’s computer when the desk started to shake, and then the curtains swayed, and things vibrated for about 30 seconds. I looked at her. She said, “This has been happening since 3-11.” It passed. We went about our business. I find it interesting in an odd sort of way that the earthquake is being remembered as 3-11. Somehow it has eerie echoes of 9-11. Terrible tragedies both.

Over the next week, in my sleepless hours at home, I’ll update this blog with earthquake related stories and maps. More pictures of my various adventures. The only picture I’ll add to this is my favorite picture of Shoko and I from our trip to Numazu … two good friends, having dinner, looking out the window at Mt. Fuji.

de wa mata,
j

PS: the change in sign-off is also a suggestion from Shoko. It’s more natural to say, especially when you plan on speaking with someone again.

by on June 3, 2011
filed in Jean in Japan

梅雨 — tsuyu — rainy season

In early summer, most parts of Japan get visited by a rainy season, the so called tsuyu, literally meaning “plum rain”, because it coincides with the season of plums ripening. The rainy season is caused by the collision of cold northerly and warm southerly air masses, which results in a relatively stable bad weather front over the Japanese archipelago for several weeks. In Tokyo, the rainy season usually begins June 8 and ends July 20. This year, however, it has begun 17 days earlier than usual, and it has begun with a typhoon … meaning it has been raining for three days straight with no let up.

I’m in Tokyo now. Took the train here on Saturday — pouring rain all the way from Kobe. Spent yesterday walking around in it … or should I say scurrying from place to place to stand/sit somewhere dry. It rained all night and it’s still raining this morning. The worst is supposed to be over today … says Shoko, the eternal optimist. Of course, we have plans, and rain or not, we’re going through with them. Reminds me of last’s years tour of the waterfalls of OkuNikko in the rain. Hmmm … come to think of it … that was before the official rainy season too. Maybe I truly am “ame onna” (woman who brings rain).

So yesterday was not one of my better days in Tokyo. I got up late. Too late to get breakfast at the inn and I needed to leave my room so they could clean. I went out. I was damp and grumpy. And hungry for something familiar. Plain well done (i.e. dry not runny) scrambled eggs. Cheese. Oh my … the thought of cheese. Chicken, a big chunk of it not a little cube on a skewer with fancy sauce on it. It’s been three weeks of noodles, and sushi, and teriyaki … I just needed something more like my normal diet.

I found a little coffee shop for breakfast. Their menu had a picture of a plate with scrambled eggs and toast on it. There was also a picture of something called “cheese toast”. However, in true Japanese manner discovered that I could not substitute the cheese toast for the regulat toast. I would have had to order both dishes. It wasn’t on the menu that way so I couldn’t get it. And I didn’t want to pay $25 for breakfast. So back to the menu.

Ah. A picture of a “three cheese pizza”. Wow … and it looked like it had garlic on it too. Two of the things I’d been missing. So I ordered it. Well, it wasn’t exactly what I had expected. Those round things in the picture … almond slices. Sweet almond slices. And then there was the black pepper sprinkled liberally on top. At least there was cheese. And the crust wasn’t bad.

Fortified with that off I went into the rain. Wandered around Nezu, the area where the inn is located. The local temple was actually beautiful in the rain. If you see the high resolution version of this picture you can see the rain …

 Shame I wasn’t here three weeks ago though … all those rounded bushes are azaleas. The place is surrounded by them and is a mass of blooms for a week in May. I’ve never quite timed it correctly to be here when all the azaleas were blooming. 

After this walkabout, I went back to the inn briefly, got rid of everything that wasn’t necessary to carry (including the camera) and just walked down through Ueno Park, the shopping mall and back. Saw an amazing display of bonsai azaleas … solid masses of flowers on gnarly branches. Amazing. No camera. Too bad. (Did I mention I was grumpy yesterday?)  That was the only thing outstanding on the afternoon wander … that is, if you don’t count having KFC for lunch. Fried chicken and fries. Yum.

Talk at you in a couple of days … hopefully with pictures of Mt. Fuji … or the clouds surrounding it! LOL.

yoroshiku,
j

by on May 29, 2011
filed in Jean in Japan

最後 — saigo — the last

saigo  — the last. Yesterday was the GBP’s “saigo no hi”  — the last day. What a day.

In the morning I encountered one of those Japanese contradictions that make me shake my head and wonder … I packed up most of my clothes and collected “stuff” that I wouldn’t need for a couple of days into my big suitcase and backpack, then arranged with the front desk at the hotel to have them sent to the inn where I’ll be staying in Tokyo. The suitcases will get there before I do. Less than a day for about a $30 fee. Sure beats lugging them.

Then, on my way to meet Dr. Sato for lunch, I stopped by the confectionery counter at the department store that is, literally, across the parking lot from the hotel. I wanted to buy a small gift to show my appreciation to the waitresses at the hotel breakfast buffet. However, I didn’t want to drag a box of candy all over with me, knowing that it would probably be late before I got back to my hotel room last night. So … knowing that the Japanese send everything, everywhere, I thought, “Hmmmm. Why not just have them deliver the box of sweets to the hotel?”  Well, I could have done that. However, it would take longer for the candy to get to the hotel, which was less than 100 yards away, than it would take for my luggage to get to Tokyo. So after quite a confusing conversation  with the very young girl at the counter that involved store hours and train schedules, I decided I would just take it with me. She then had to wrap the package for me. Of course. So I waited, not so patiently, while she wrapped it. Put the ribbon on it. Tied the bow. And then put it all in a pretty shopping bag. I love Japan. Turned out I had enough time to take it back to the hotel myself and still get on a train that got me to my meeting with Dr. Sato on time.

So this will join the hand drier—hair drier dilemma. How come the Japanese can make one of those blower hand driers that actually dries your hands and they can’t (or don’t) make a hair drier that actually dries your (my) hair?

In the afternoon the team working for the sake company gave their presentation. Did a great job. And we all got a bottle of sake (:-) one of the good ones! )  from our hosts as a thank you present. And after a brief rest at the hotel (about 40 minutes) off we went to the farewell party. Now the farewell party is a lot like the welcome parties — speeches from everyone, food, drink  — only it’s much more casual and everyone tends to let their hair down. This was no exception. Since one of our clients was a sake company, we got to do a ritualistic smashing of the sake barrel, i.e. hitting a wooden keg of sake with mallets to break it open. What fun … about 6 of us slugged it sending wooden slats flying and showering us all with sake. (Hopefully I will get a copy of the video.) This was followed by more speeches and, of course, drinking the sake that was left in the barrel. And there were cameras everywhere … and I think the picture belows sums it all up … there was the usual lining up of people and teams to take pictures and someone grabbed my camera and said “get in with that group” … I did, and suddenly my feet were off the ground and everyone was hysterical and flash bulbs were popping. What a memento!

And today … everyone is off in different directions.  So when I went to breakfast this morning I was already emotional (and a bit hung-over). I should explain that after only a couple of days at the hotel, the ladies who waited tables there knew what I usually  drank at breakfast, what I usually ate. They would see me come in and set up my tray for me with all the appropriate drinks and utensils. So today when I walked in my favorite waitress looked at me, sadly, and said, “saigo no hi desu ne? It’s your last day isn’t it!”  We both teared up. After breakfast I gave her the candies to share with the rest of the crew. We had a tearful hug and thank you’s and bows and made quite a scene. Oh well … one of the reasons I love this place.

 So now I need to figure out how to stuff the remaining clothes and gifts into my one remaining little suitcase, check out and take the train to Tokyo. A couple of days of R&R before heading off on an adventure with Shoko. Meanwhile, a typhoon is heading our way so the “scenic views of Mt. Fuji” that we had planned to see, probably won’t be visible. Oh well. Shikata ga nai. I’ll have to come back. :-)

yoroshiku,
j

by on May 27, 2011
filed in GBP 2011, Jean in Japan

いちご — ichigo

This is one of the Japanese words that depends on which version of the kanji character you use … or whether you even write it in kanji. 　

Written as: 苺 or イチゴ,  ichigo is a strawberry.

as  一語, ichi go literally means, one word, or, according to my electronic dictionary, it can mean the “last word”

and as 一期, ichigo means once in a lifetime, or,  sometime between being born and dying.

What has this got to do with anything? Not much. But I’m a bit philosophical as this year’s Global Business Project draws to a close — ALREADY??!  So maybe this is 一語 (the last word) on an 一期  (once in a lifetime) chance. Sweet, like an イチゴ shortcake. Whatever. It’s been an interesting, if very different, trip. 

Personally, a bit of a struggle … not feeling my best. Napping when I had time off, instead of being out exploring. But, as in past years, I’ve made good connections with clients and students. Will miss them when we all head our separate ways on Saturday morning.  Tired or not, I feel comfortable here. The soba shop and the Chinese restaurants next to the hotel have become my local “kitchens” … and after two weeks my Japanese language skills are kicking in. At times I find myself having conversations without having to think to hard about what I’m trying to say. And at other times … well, at other times, it’s incredibly frustrating that after all these years, I still can’t say what I want to. For example, I had a bit of a touchy subject to discuss with a colleague today and I’m not sure how much of what I said, in either language, was really understood.

The students have worked very hard under trying circumstances. One of my colleagues arranged for Osaka TV to do a story on the projects — which is great, don’t get me wrong! However, doing that on top of last minute preparations for a presentation in an unfamiliar language for most of them, was more than a little bit stressful. The team I’m working with spent over 6 hours yesterday with a camera in their face … on a second tour of the brewery, in the workroom, in a very uncomfortable interview with the president of the company, over dinner, and even back to the hotel afterwards. That’s where I drew the line. Said goodnight and went into my room. Enough.

One team did their presntation this morning. Went well. I’m proud of them for making the effort to speak in a difficult language in front of an audience. And it’s now 10 o’clock at night and I just finished reviewing the other team’s presentation for tomorrow with their team leader.  That must be my 一語 (last word) for this evening. 

Tomorrow night is the farewell party … like the welcome party only a little wilder. Everyone lets their hair down … it could be an 一期 (once in a lifetime) event! And … they may even serve イチゴ(strawberries).

yoroshiku
j

　

by on May 26, 2011
filed in GBP 2011, Jean in Japan
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