saigo  — the last. Yesterday was the GBP’s “saigo no hi”  — the last day. What a day.

In the morning I encountered one of those Japanese contradictions that make me shake my head and wonder … I packed up most of my clothes and collected “stuff” that I wouldn’t need for a couple of days into my big suitcase and backpack, then arranged with the front desk at the hotel to have them sent to the inn where I’ll be staying in Tokyo. The suitcases will get there before I do. Less than a day for about a $30 fee. Sure beats lugging them.

Then, on my way to meet Dr. Sato for lunch, I stopped by the confectionery counter at the department store that is, literally, across the parking lot from the hotel. I wanted to buy a small gift to show my appreciation to the waitresses at the hotel breakfast buffet. However, I didn’t want to drag a box of candy all over with me, knowing that it would probably be late before I got back to my hotel room last night. So … knowing that the Japanese send everything, everywhere, I thought, “Hmmmm. Why not just have them deliver the box of sweets to the hotel?”  Well, I could have done that. However, it would take longer for the candy to get to the hotel, which was less than 100 yards away, than it would take for my luggage to get to Tokyo. So after quite a confusing conversation  with the very young girl at the counter that involved store hours and train schedules, I decided I would just take it with me. She then had to wrap the package for me. Of course. So I waited, not so patiently, while she wrapped it. Put the ribbon on it. Tied the bow. And then put it all in a pretty shopping bag. I love Japan. Turned out I had enough time to take it back to the hotel myself and still get on a train that got me to my meeting with Dr. Sato on time.

So this will join the hand drier—hair drier dilemma. How come the Japanese can make one of those blower hand driers that actually dries your hands and they can’t (or don’t) make a hair drier that actually dries your (my) hair?

In the afternoon the team working for the sake company gave their presentation. Did a great job. And we all got a bottle of sake (:-) one of the good ones! )  from our hosts as a thank you present. And after a brief rest at the hotel (about 40 minutes) off we went to the farewell party. Now the farewell party is a lot like the welcome parties — speeches from everyone, food, drink  — only it’s much more casual and everyone tends to let their hair down. This was no exception. Since one of our clients was a sake company, we got to do a ritualistic smashing of the sake barrel, i.e. hitting a wooden keg of sake with mallets to break it open. What fun … about 6 of us slugged it sending wooden slats flying and showering us all with sake. (Hopefully I will get a copy of the video.) This was followed by more speeches and, of course, drinking the sake that was left in the barrel. And there were cameras everywhere … and I think the picture belows sums it all up … there was the usual lining up of people and teams to take pictures and someone grabbed my camera and said “get in with that group” … I did, and suddenly my feet were off the ground and everyone was hysterical and flash bulbs were popping. What a memento!

And today … everyone is off in different directions.  So when I went to breakfast this morning I was already emotional (and a bit hung-over). I should explain that after only a couple of days at the hotel, the ladies who waited tables there knew what I usually  drank at breakfast, what I usually ate. They would see me come in and set up my tray for me with all the appropriate drinks and utensils. So today when I walked in my favorite waitress looked at me, sadly, and said, “saigo no hi desu ne? It’s your last day isn’t it!”  We both teared up. After breakfast I gave her the candies to share with the rest of the crew. We had a tearful hug and thank you’s and bows and made quite a scene. Oh well … one of the reasons I love this place.

 So now I need to figure out how to stuff the remaining clothes and gifts into my one remaining little suitcase, check out and take the train to Tokyo. A couple of days of R&R before heading off on an adventure with Shoko. Meanwhile, a typhoon is heading our way so the “scenic views of Mt. Fuji” that we had planned to see, probably won’t be visible. Oh well. Shikata ga nai. I’ll have to come back.

yoroshiku,
j

This is one of the Japanese words that depends on which version of the kanji character you use … or whether you even write it in kanji. 　

Written as: 苺 or イチゴ,  ichigo is a strawberry.

as  一語, ichi go literally means, one word, or, according to my electronic dictionary, it can mean the “last word”

and as 一期, ichigo means once in a lifetime, or,  sometime between being born and dying.

What has this got to do with anything? Not much. But I’m a bit philosophical as this year’s Global Business Project draws to a close — ALREADY??!  So maybe this is 一語 (the last word) on an 一期  (once in a lifetime) chance. Sweet, like an イチゴ shortcake. Whatever. It’s been an interesting, if very different, trip. 

Personally, a bit of a struggle … not feeling my best. Napping when I had time off, instead of being out exploring. But, as in past years, I’ve made good connections with clients and students. Will miss them when we all head our separate ways on Saturday morning.  Tired or not, I feel comfortable here. The soba shop and the Chinese restaurants next to the hotel have become my local “kitchens” … and after two weeks my Japanese language skills are kicking in. At times I find myself having conversations without having to think to hard about what I’m trying to say. And at other times … well, at other times, it’s incredibly frustrating that after all these years, I still can’t say what I want to. For example, I had a bit of a touchy subject to discuss with a colleague today and I’m not sure how much of what I said, in either language, was really understood.

The students have worked very hard under trying circumstances. One of my colleagues arranged for Osaka TV to do a story on the projects — which is great, don’t get me wrong! However, doing that on top of last minute preparations for a presentation in an unfamiliar language for most of them, was more than a little bit stressful. The team I’m working with spent over 6 hours yesterday with a camera in their face … on a second tour of the brewery, in the workroom, in a very uncomfortable interview with the president of the company, over dinner, and even back to the hotel afterwards. That’s where I drew the line. Said goodnight and went into my room. Enough.

One team did their presntation this morning. Went well. I’m proud of them for making the effort to speak in a difficult language in front of an audience. And it’s now 10 o’clock at night and I just finished reviewing the other team’s presentation for tomorrow with their team leader.  That must be my 一語 (last word) for this evening. 

Tomorrow night is the farewell party … like the welcome party only a little wilder. Everyone lets their hair down … it could be an 一期 (once in a lifetime) event! And … they may even serve イチゴ(strawberries).

yoroshiku
j

More pictures from Shoushazan temple …

And from Himeji Castle

Lots more … will make an album on Facebook when i get time.

yorohsiku,
j

Actually had a good weekend. Between hot baths, mentholatum patches, and bountiful sake I was able to manage the back pain and have some fun. Saturday morning I took it slowly. Wandered to the neighborhood koin randuri (coin laundry) so I would have some clean clothes for the next week. Had a lovely conversation with the only other person who was there — a Japanese woman who had lived in LA for a while, a long time ago.

In the afternoon I went off to Kobe University to give a lecture on the use of social media in B to B marketing. That actually went much better than I expected. I showed lots of examples of how US companies are using Facebook, YouTube, Twitter, etc to promote their businesses. Some were serious, some were very silly but incredibly effective. The company Blendtec, for example, sells industrial strength blenders. They’ve created a Youtube sensation with a “Will It Blend” series of videos. (For those of you old enough to remember the early days of SNL, think “bass-o-matic”)  Some of the things that these guys have thrown into one of their blenders are an iPhone and an iPad! People love it. And it has really helped their business. The Japanese students were amazed and aghast at this. Couldn’t imagine any of the company’s they worked for doing such a thing.

After the seminar I went to dinner with the professor and 5 of the students. That was a lot of fun. A tiny little restaurant, a big bottle of sake, and lots of laughter. Fortunately didn’t get back to the hotel too late, because I had plans to meet a friend early Sunday morning to begin our excursion to Himeji. For those of you who aren’t familiar with Himeji, it is the home of one of the most famous castles in Japan. And even if you’ve never heard of it, you’ve probably seen it somewhere in a poster advertising Japan or a movie. Of course, given the way this trip has been going … they just started a major renovation of the castle and most of it is under a scaffold. shikata ga nai …

It was worth seeing in any case. It’s a World Heritage site. The first in Japan. What was even more interesting about it, to me anyway, was the fact that it was one of the locations used to film, “The Last Samurai”, one of my favorite movies. Not becuase of Tom Cruise, mind you. No. Not Tom. Not when compared to Ken Watanabe. My, my. But I digress …

Also near Himeji is a Buddhist Temple, Shoushazan, on top of a mountain, that was also part of the set location for the movie. After arriving at Himeji train station, we went there first. That involved a bus ride from the station, and then a ride on a “ropeway” to get to the entrance. The ropeway is not for the faint of heart or the acrophobic, especially as it bounces over the supporting trestles. Whee … what a ride. And what scenery! Once on the mountain, there were bamboo walking sticks available for “Free Rental” (??) which were very useful in the continued hike up the mountain and the innumerable staircases.

The place was beautiful. One of those places I could have stayed for a very long time. One of those, liquidate everything, send the cat(s) places. Sigh. Originally built in 966, it is said to be a magic mountain and the main hall is called the Hall of the Wish Fulfilling Jewel. You’ll see stone lanterns with piles of little stone “wishes” on them all around it. The Great Auditorium, built in 986, was used in the filming. There is also, off the beaten track, a tiny inari (fox) shrine, full of fox figurines. Lit a candle there since I work in the “Fox School” at Temple.

After a few hours wandering around we knew we needed to head back to the city if we wanted to see the castle. Despite the scaffolding, it was still an amazing place to visit. The architecture alone was absolutely amazing. The thought that people actually lived in a structure like this I also find amazing. I got lost on the tour route which was only a small fraction of the inside of the building. Not much more to say about it … the pictures are better.

By the time we finished the tour the castle was closing to the public, so we wandered back to the station and headed back to Kobe … tired but happy. I think I found a bit of my internal samurai.

yoroshiku,
j

A few pictures from the Temple. Will upload castle tomorrow.

すみません (sumimasen) is one of the most useful phrases I’ve found in Japanese.

It can mean, I’m sorry, as in, “I’m sorry, for those of you that actually look forward to my blog, that I haven’t been publishing much this trip.” And when you add another word and make it doumo sumimasen, it means I’m very sorry. As in, I’m very sorry I haven’t felt very well this trip (implying that I am an imposition on my hosts) and don’t have many cheery, upbeat observations to make. And in reality it has been a very odd trip. I’ve had very low energy. I’ve found the endless meetings and dinners, though with good food and very nice people, to be exhausting.  I guess that’s what happens when you spend a day in the hospital two days before leaving the country.

sumimasen can also be used to request a favor … as in, sumimasen, I have a pain in my back can you recommend an acupuncturist?  This of course sends your Japanese hosts into a panic mode trying to track down someone appropriate for you, who can speak a little English or they will feel obligated to go with you to translate for you. And when they do find someone the only opening they have in their schedule is for the same time you are scheduled to give a seminar on Saturday afternoon. Fortunately I have found a “spa” next to the hotel where they offer massage for Y100 / minute (about equivalent to $1 a minute). They don’t speak any English but I can point at the spot on my back and say, koko ni itai (it hurts here). Then I can go to the drug store and buy “salon pas” — sticky pads impregnated with something akin to Tiger Balm that I can stick on my back.

And then there is the general sumimasen that is equivalent to oops! This can be said in varying tones of voice depending on the particular situation …

sumimasen, I have lost my internet connection again (used frequently at this hotel when I try to log in to a web or to access the blog), or

sumimasen, we’ve lost the sound on our Skype connection so we’ll have to do on line charades. That was actually kind of fun. Victoria figured out that I was talking about my iris blooming when the sound went out.

So I say to you all, sumimasen, sumimasen, sumimasen. Hopefully things will get better from here.

yoroshiku,
j

PS … I forgot one. The “WTF” sumimasen … can be used when a confused middle aged Japanese lady on the train asks you whether this train goes to ___ (pointing at some characters on a piece of paper). Time for the WTF, sumimasen. You’ve not only mistaken me for someone who can read kanji but also someone who knows where they are going!

Hard to believe it’s been three days since I last wrote … but we have been immersed in the official “Hub CIty Weekend” for the GBP projects. This involves three days of traveling about with a group of at least 13 people for factory and hotel tours, lectures on Japanese business and culture, and lunches where the restaurant owners wince when they see this huge group of foreigners descending on their restaurant. And then there are the dinners. A formal dinner Friday night for all the faculty and students to meet the presidents and staff of their clients. This one includes introductions, toasts, and speeches by the honored guests and the faculty. I stumbled through mine in Japanese but was assured that it was heartfelt and they know what I meant. Hmmm … wonder what I really said?

Saturday started with a review of the team mid term evaluations, then off to the Kobe School of Fashion for afternoon lectures. My group was a little late getting there because I let them have a short respite walking through the shrine next door before hitting them with 4 hours of lectures. The welcome dinner Saturday night was much more casual then the night before. This one was for the student teams and faculty only at a yakitori (grilled chicken) restaurant. And, of course, it included a bit of sake and beer.

Sunday we once again convened as a group … 14of us coming from multiple directions to meet at the “East Gate” of the Sannomiya Station. Amazing … we all showed up, relatively on time. And we started walking … and walking … found a restaurant that would take the gang of us, had a quick lunch … then started walking through the “old city” of Kobe. Beautiful old homes on the side of a mountain. Yes … we kept walking … up … up the hill … and further up the hill … and up the 50 or so stairs to the shrine on the side of the mountain. Finally got to the top of the roads leading up the hill and decided it was time to turn around. So now, yes, we walked down the hill, and further down … and down … stopped and checked out whether we’d have time to ride the ropeway tram to the herb garden at the top of the mountain. The line was too long … and we needed to be meet some of our party near the station at a particular time. So we kept walking … back the way we came.

About three hours after this walkathon started, we wound up back at the Sannomiya Station area where the Kobe Festival and parade was in full swing. And it was mobbed. Now imagine, sidewalks jammed with people and trying to keep track of 14 people. Talk about herding cats! But we picked a time and a spot and managed to converge there to watch the parade for a while. The hotel that is sponsoring one of the projects was marching in the parade and we were there to cheer on our contacts. So now we stood around for about an hour waiting for their group to pass by, while watching samba dancers, majorettes, bands, and other assorted entertainment march by. Finally the hotel group came by. We did something very uncharacteristic of the Japanese watching the parade … we all waved and yelled and screamed their names as they marched by.

By now, most of our feet were aching, but we weren’t done. Even running about an hour later than the schedule, we walked back to the station, boarded a train, and rode a couple of stops to go see Tetsujin, the Iron Man statue. Think keeping 14 people together on the street is hard? Try making sure that everyone gets through the turnstiles and onto the same train … I’ve seen Tetsujin, several times. On previous trips I stayed in a hotel around the corner from the Tetsujin park. For me, it was a brief moment of calm, and a few minutes to sit quietly, while the students took pictures.

But enough of that, time for the next agenda item on our schedule for the day … back to the train. Ride two stops. Get off. Walk on my aching, swelling feet … to a newspaper office. Up to the 14th floor to see the view … it was gorgeous … the whole Kobe waterfront. Down to the 13th floor to walk through the news room … literally, walk in. Walk out. … down another floor to an editing room. Walk in. Look at a technician editing footage from the parade. The guys really did like those samba dancers. After 5 minutes there we are off again. Down to the lobby, and ready to walk (augh!!!) to the Fashion Institute where the evening’s dinner party is being held.  I suggested that I’d be glad to pay for a taxi but was ignored … and thus we walked. I had told one of the students who was hanging back with me, “I know where I’m going so don’t worry about losing me. I’ll get there … eventually.” And I did. The last one by a good hundred yards. It was one time I was supremely happy that we were asked to remove our shoes and wear slippers. Aaaaah. Taking the pressure off my toes felt wonderful.

And so began our last welcome dinner … this one with the GBP teams, faculty, and students from the business school that is our partner in these projects. Very casual, thank heavens. No speeches. Only one toast. Some sushi and noodle soup. And, beer and sake. And … finally … back to the hotel to bed.

We are all looking forward to the “real” work starting today … so we don’t have any more welcome parties to attend!

Will post some photos later.

yoroshiku,
j

ichigo is one of those wonderful Japanese words that can mean a multitude of things, depending on how it is used. It can be a strawberry, a “once in a lifetime” experience, or, as I discovered last night, the word for the smallest bottle that sake is sold in — a single serving of 180ml. At dinner last evening, our hosts decided that we should try some Hakutsuru sake since they are one of our clients for GBP (Global Business Project) 2011. So they ordered an ichigo of one of Hakutsuru’s “best” sakes.

My, my. What a wonderful taste it was. Most Americans associate sake with the stuff that is served warm in many Japanese restaurants. What they don’t realize is that there are a multitude of different sakes, brewed with as much variation and character as fine grape wines and only the cheap stuff is served hot. The stuff served warm equates to “box” or  ”jug” wine in the US. The low grade sake.

An issho bin is the size bottle of sake more like a standard wine bottle. I found this wonderful quote on the web this morning: “The idea <of the issho bin of sake> is to polish it off little by little, in the spirit of the proverb, “Osake-wa, hyakuyaku no chou.” It means that a little sake every day is better than any medicine – words to live by if ever I heard any.”  I heartily second that writer’s comment.

Today we begin our work for real. First a tour of the sake factory, then a tour of the hotel that is funding the other GBP Project this year, then the first of the “kick off dinners”. I have to get to work — I’m required to give a speech at that one.

yoroshiku,
j